How To: Heat Sink the Regulator/Rectifier

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Re: How To: Heat Sink the Regulator/Rectifier

Postby NEMissourian » Sun Nov 02, 2014 7:02 am

Charlie, you really don't need any special tool to put the FH0020AA on if you buy the kit. Certainly it is expensive at 100 dollars plus. I think I extended the AC leads using solder and shrink tubing when I put one on a VFR750. It is larger than the stock unit.

I don't think you can get into any trouble with vibration caused solder joints on our units. Actually I have bypassed wiring connectors on Triumph 650s and Yamaha 500s both with tons more shake than a 250 vtwin. Seemingly without having problems with wire breakage. Have you had issues? I have anecdotally read about solder joints failing it but never experienced it. It is always the connectors which fail for me. I have torn apart lots of wiring "fixed" by others on my used machines.

Have seen lots of burnt up AC harnesses (not just hondas but mostly) because of connectors with crimp on factory connectors. It has a continuous high current. and using undersized or otherwise inferior connections.

I think the vast majority soldering connections that fail are from incorrect technique ei cold solder joints, rather than any other reason.
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Re: How To: Heat Sink the Regulator/Rectifier

Postby mark stutley » Mon Jan 26, 2015 2:40 am

John Hilmer wrote:Dave,

Thanks for making this available here.

One thing that I can add is that a light grit blasting of the factory heat sink to remove the black anodizing can increase the surface area enough to make a difference as well.

Of course this exposes the raw die-cast aluminum and there is a risk of corrosion if you live near the ocean or if the bike isn't parked out of weather. I never ride in the wet, but if you do this also can contribute to corrosion. If you ride in the rain, an occasional cleaning will remove the corruption and allow for better heat flow.

Yep, I know most here do not have access to a grit blaster, but just in case you do....

John
Hi all . have you seen the blaster ( bicarb ) on youtube ? just need a box of bicarb and poly tube + compressor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YI_Bnl6l-OY
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Re: How To: Heat Sink the Regulator/Rectifier

Postby MarkinNam » Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:35 am

found this response on http://www.kawiforums.com/2003-2004-zx- ... lting.html Sounds like a short circuit somewhere in the harness i.e. a wire has rubbed against the frame and is now conducting some current. It's definitely a current draw issue as I've witnessed this before in another context.

I don't know any easier way than look through the harness or replace it. I would start from the wires that move when you turn the handlebars. good point here about handle bar area as I've added wiring for louder horn and now my connector is fried
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Re: How To: Heat Sink the Regulator/Rectifier

Postby MarkinNam » Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:59 am

Romans 8;28 And we know in all things God works for the good of those who love Him, who have been called according to His purpose....Everyone's mind is a different world
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Re: How To: Heat Sink the Regulator/Rectifier

Postby MarkinNam » Thu Jun 29, 2017 2:41 am

HI, in all your pics there seems to be no heat transfer fins on the R/R this seems a little strange, mine is replacement from a CB250 so the extra fins may not be worth while. However,,,, the fan from a pc runs 12volts and can be attached most have a means of attachment, or an air scoop to direct air ( discreetly) into the R/R fins, something I'm investigating so will follow up with pics. I did take your suggestion about cleaning so I let mine sit is 1 tablespoon caustic soda and 500ml water for 10 mins then scrub with wire brush, much cleaner
Romans 8;28 And we know in all things God works for the good of those who love Him, who have been called according to His purpose....Everyone's mind is a different world
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