Loose camshaft chain

Major engine repair tips

Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby Janovich » Sun Dec 16, 2018 2:55 am

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I've checked both chains by running the starter motor, but they seem to be doing fine. So, as the title of the thread indicates, it is not a rattling/loose camshaft chain.
Will properly check the valve clearance today by turning the crankshaft as indicated in the workshop manual
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Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby spotthedogg » Thu Jan 24, 2019 12:19 pm

Barbie & Skipper wrote:It's a bit late now for disassembly, but it is better, in my opinion, to loosen or remove the carb connecting bolt. Once that is done, there is enough flex for the carbs to be removed much easier.

When re-installing the carbs, insert the connecting bolt only loosely, and installation will go much more smoothly. I switched to using a standard bolt, rather than the phillips head machine screw holding the carbs together. That also makes subsequent removal and installation much easier.

As a general rule, I tend to replace phillips screws with allen head or hex head bolts. Phillips screws often are too easy to strip.


We have always been told to never loosen that bolt unless absolutely necessary!
VT250F2H Track. sARL AM #72
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Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby squirrelman » Thu Jan 24, 2019 6:54 pm

spotthedogg wrote:
Barbie & Skipper wrote:It's a bit late now for disassembly, but it is better, in my opinion, to loosen or remove the carb connecting bolt. Once that is done, there is enough flex for the carbs to be removed much easier.

When re-installing the carbs, insert the connecting bolt only loosely, and installation will go much more smoothly. I switched to using a standard bolt, rather than the phillips head machine screw holding the carbs together. That also makes subsequent removal and installation much easier.

As a general rule, I tend to replace phillips screws with allen head or hex head bolts. Phillips screws often are too easy to strip.


We have always been told to never loosen that bolt unless absolutely necessary!


changes carb synch to loosen but necessary to replace fuel inlet Y O-rings.
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Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby Barbie & Skipper » Fri Jan 25, 2019 6:24 pm

spotthedogg wrote:
Barbie & Skipper wrote:It's a bit late now for disassembly, but it is better, in my opinion, to loosen or remove the carb connecting bolt. Once that is done, there is enough flex for the carbs to be removed much easier.

When re-installing the carbs, insert the connecting bolt only loosely, and installation will go much more smoothly. I switched to using a standard bolt, rather than the phillips head machine screw holding the carbs together. That also makes subsequent removal and installation much easier.

As a general rule, I tend to replace phillips screws with allen head or hex head bolts. Phillips screws often are too easy to strip.


We have always been told to never loosen that bolt unless absolutely necessary!


Return to dealer for service! No user-serviceable parts inside!

EDIT:
But on a more serious note, on Page 4-6 of the FSM (Fuel System / Carburetor / Disassembly), we read:
---------------
Note: The vacuum chamber and flat chamber can be serviced without separating the carburetors.

...

Separate the carburetors and remove the fuel joint pipe.
---------------

Most likely, we all agree that some people should never take a wrench to a motorcycle. I suspect that most of us have owned motorcycles that were "maintained" by idiots. On the other hand, if a person is reasonable mechanically adept, methodical, and capable of learning from his own mistakes and from others, there is very little on these VTR's that can't be tackled. Hopefully every person taking a wrench to their bike should think things through carefully before completely accepting kibitzing, regardless of how well-intentioned the source.
Barbie - 89 VTR250 - 7k+, back on the road after 3 1/2 year vacation
Skipper - 90 VTR250 - 37k+, black & white, two-part project working 22 years after first parked
Parts bike - 90 VTR250 - 20k+, "maintained" by idiots
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Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby Janovich » Tue Jan 29, 2019 4:25 am

Image

Bike is back on the road. Honestly the ticking noise in the engine is still there sometimes but oh well. Eliminated a lot of the causes so I'm getting more confident that it's no big deal.

So, with the new sprockets the gear ratio has been changed and the bike has a lot more low-end power. Accelerates really quickly but is not so much a speed monster at higher speeds (never was but now even less ;P ) He still easily reaches 140 without problem and could probably accelerate even more if I push him, I'm thinking of changing the front sprocket back to 16 teeth and see if it makes a major difference for highway speeds.

The carbs are completely clean, I was a bit suprised when I opened them up because they just looked so damn new.

Replaced the cylinder head gaskets which started to fray and also left tiny flakes of sticky rubber inside the engine.

Spark plugs have a relatively weak spark regardless of the battery, but they still fire up the bike fine. I think the spark coils are weak and might need replacing sometime.

Obviously it's now a purple bike! I have vinyl wrapped it in 3M satin flip Glacial frost which is a mix of purple with cyan highlights. Especially in the evening under streetlights this color looks really slick.
If you ever wish to vinyl wrap parts of your bike, NEVER go with ebay vinyl. It just doesn't stretch, lots of wrinkles and just doesn't stick on corners. Even with expensive high end vinyl it was already a tedious and hard task. On large parts ask someone to help you it makes the process and final result look a lot better.
The windshield was old and browned with lots of scratches, couldn't see through it properly anyway so painted it black with a shiny finish.
All the worn metal parts have been touched up with black spraypaint and the bike looks a lot slicker because of it. Especially the exhaust pipes, front-fork, engine caps and mirrors needed this.

Some of the white wheel paint is wearing off which I might touch up at some point.

Carburator manifold rubbers have been replaced after I detached the carbs. I ordered new ones from ebay and because the shipping was unreliable had ordered another (different) pair from amazon. The quality was significantly different. The amazon rubbers we're really hard to attach properly and leaked a lot of air. When the ebay ones arrived I installed those and they are great quality.

The gashandle push cable was rusted and has been replaced with some DIY ingenuity. The cables are now greased and properly tweaked and the gashandle feels great now. Also slightly tweaked the idle gas and the motor now starts perfectly even without choke most of the times.

When reinstalling the gas tank I made some wrong attachements, eventually realized my mistake by looking at schematics and WIP pictures. Even when properly attached had some problems getting proper vaccuum so bike wouldn't start. Fixed this by attaching a straw on the petcock vaccuum and sucking while trying to start. Petcock released fuel properly and bike started immediately, re-attached the proper vaccuum cable to it and has been doing fine ever since.

Cooling fluid has been replaced which taught me a lot about how the system works. I think when re-attaching the fan cable it made the temperature indicator now works again.
Oil and oilfilter has been replaced. Was some shiny metal residu on the old oil but not too much.
Battery has been replaced with a new stock one that actually fits properly (old owner just jammed one in that didn't fit )
When I bought the bike the blink lights had been replaced with really cheap chinese crap and I've replace them with proper solid ones from an FJ600. They're pretty bulky and plenty visible for other traffic.


Thanks for all your help on this forum guys!! I'll share some more proper pictures soon.
If anyone has any questions let me know. Hope the WIP gifs explained and visualized a lot of stuff for other people doing maintenance too.
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Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby Barbie & Skipper » Tue Jan 29, 2019 12:11 pm

Looks great! :D

It's a terrific feeling to bring an old bike back to roadworthy status. Even better when it turns out nice like yours did.
Barbie - 89 VTR250 - 7k+, back on the road after 3 1/2 year vacation
Skipper - 90 VTR250 - 37k+, black & white, two-part project working 22 years after first parked
Parts bike - 90 VTR250 - 20k+, "maintained" by idiots
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Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby UK Keith » Wed Jan 30, 2019 3:45 am

Regarding the cam chain. When I had my JDM VTZ250 which is essentially the same model, there was some confusion from different information sources as to whether the cam chain length was 130 or 128 links. I can't remember which it was but I got a joinable chain and had it fitted by a local Honda technician who linked it to the old chain and wound it through the engine cases. Minimal expense and only the cam cover needed removing from the motor. I think the guy did a little work to the tensioner to stop it sticking although memories of the details are a bit fuzzy as it was six or more years ago now.
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Re: Loose camshaft chain

Postby Janovich » Thu Jan 31, 2019 2:35 am

Thank you

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It had a little trouble starting but with some patience it did :)
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