Starting over

Show off your skills in turning a basket case into a showroom dream!

Re: Starting over

Postby Barbie & Skipper » Wed Dec 19, 2018 7:36 pm

Removing, cleaning, rebuilding, and reinstalling a set of carbs is a good indication that you are going to need to sync them. It's part of the process.

If you're referring to a static sync prior to installation, that is not going to be materially affected by removing the carb connecting bolt during installation.
LOOSENING the carb connecting bolt during installation is a bad idea. It will allow huge stresses on the mounting boss, and may break it off. The bolt should be removed entirely.

Even with a manual static sync, it is appropriate to do a vacuum sync on the carbs after installation.

If unbolting the carbs seems like a bad idea to you, and you have no trouble removing or reinstalling them while they are still bolted, my information will not be of much use. I'm just passing on what I've learned, not trying to force anyone to do things a certain way.
Barbie - 89 VTR250 - 6k+, back on the road.
Skipper - 90 VTR250 - 36k+, painted black & white, "ran when parked", upcoming project.
Parts bike - 90 VTR250 - 20k+, "maintained" by idiots, but mostly complete, no title.
Barbie & Skipper
 
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2018 5:12 pm

Re: Starting over

Postby squirrelman » Wed Dec 19, 2018 9:32 pm

yes, i was suggesting that the bench synch would be different after the crossbolt was loosened then re-tightened.

oct 15---18 018.JPG


12-1-17 175.JPG
User avatar
squirrelman
 
Posts: 859
Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2012 1:57 pm
Location: Buffalo, NY USA

Re: Starting over

Postby Barbie & Skipper » Mon Jan 21, 2019 11:36 pm

Skipper has been running well, but has a few issues. She's been leaking fork oil pretty badly, fouling the brake pads & rotor. The petcock is not feeding fuel on reserve, and she stranded me again. Fortunately I was only about 1/2 mile from a gas station.

I ordered fork seals for both bikes, and they are supposed to arrive tomorrow. I pulled Skipper apart today, and things went well until trying to remove the socket bolt at the bottom of the fork. I couldn't get the socket bolt out of either fork, and finally decided to pull the parts off the parts bike. It seemed like a good idea at the time, so I completely stripped the parts bike while I was at it. It was somewhat of a surprise just how easy the bike was to strip down to a bare frame.

The parts bike only has 20k on it, and the forks came apart easily. They were filled with a nasty sludge that could hardly be called fork oil, but the socket bolts popped out with no issues. A friend of mine came over and helped for a while. We're going to wind up drilling out the socket bolts on Skipper's original forks. Hopefully Skipper will get buttoned up tomorrow.

I put the chinese ebay petcock on Barbie because she was leaking. I'll be putting Barbie's original petcock on Skipper. Apparently I'd just over-tightened it a bit and cut the o-ring.

Skipper's tach has been acting funny. Sometimes the tach won't respond until I take her out on the freeway. After a few miles at speed, the tach recovers and works for a few more days. She had the same issue when I first put her back together, which was fixed by using contact cleaner on the connections. Since everything is apart, I'll clean the connections again, and use dielectric grease this time.
Barbie - 89 VTR250 - 6k+, back on the road.
Skipper - 90 VTR250 - 36k+, painted black & white, "ran when parked", upcoming project.
Parts bike - 90 VTR250 - 20k+, "maintained" by idiots, but mostly complete, no title.
Barbie & Skipper
 
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2018 5:12 pm

Previous

Return to Rebuilds

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

cron